Disclaimer: this video/review was not sponsored by Armin Strom, Topper Jewelers or any other entity.
Video
Review
Armin Strom is a brand that has lived a few lives already. The first began under the namesake watchmaker, who started with a watch repair and retail store and later became an industry expert in the skeletonization of watches. You can even find Omega Speedmaster watches that were made in collaboration with Armin Strom, which I found to be a very unusual yet impressive combination of styles.
The next chapter began when watch enthusiast Serge Michel and master watchmaker Claude Greisler took over the brand name and revived it as a modern watch company, with nearly the entire watchmaking process carried out in their fully integrated manufacture in Biel, a very impressive accomplishment in itself. This era of Armin Strom saw some polarizing designs, including ones that I will openly admit to finding rather unattractive. But in a way, I believe this was a necessary step, as it allowed them to refine their engineering and finishing capabilities, ultimately positioning them for their third and current life as a beloved independent watchmaker. Today, they produce some of the most technically impressive pieces in their market segment, delivering exemplary finishing that is respected by even the most seasoned collectors.
As the brand has matured, their designs have evolved to become much more approachable, while still staying true to their original design tenets: prominently displaying open-worked mechanics and fully embracing the skeletonized aesthetic, albeit in a more modern and slightly restrained manner compared to the skeletonized watches of the original watchmaker, Armin Strom.
This is the Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire, a watch I’ve been in love with since first handling one about three years ago at the Armin Strom booth at WatchTime. I was fortunate to meet Claude Greisler at the booth, who personally explained in impressive detail the engineering that made this watch possible. Since then, I’ve handled a few other watches from Armin Strom, and I’ve always walked away impressed. So I’m pleased to finally be able to share this particular watch here. I should note that this is a pre-owned piece, over two years old, and it hasn’t been treated like a safe queen, there are some scratches on the crystal and a few dislodged particles visible, which I would comfortably attribute to the original owner, not the brand. This watch currently has a retail price of $32,000 USD.
Let’s check it out!
Case
I measured the case to be 40.5mm in diameter, 47.5mm from lug tip to lug tip, and 11.90mm in overall thickness. The case is made entirely of stainless steel and features a design that incorporates a few cues from previous Armin Strom watches, such as the raised lip at the 6 o’clock position – which, thankfully, is now confined to the polished bezel section only – and a lug design that I believe echoes some of their older styles. The lug width is a convenient 20mm.
The case showcases a good mix of finishing techniques, from the high-polished bezel to the brushed and polished lugs, and the brushed 6.5mm push-pull crown, which also features some matte sections within the grip and logo.
Flipping the watch over, you’ll find a screw-down case-back with a large exhibition window and a very well-fitted movement. The watch is rated for only 30m of water resistance, which is adequate for what is essentially a dress watch, though I think they could have increased this rating given how sporty the watch actually looks and feels.
Dial
One of the fundamental tenets of Armin Strom’s design language is the use of skeletonization and open-worked architecture to highlight the brand’s engineering innovations and movement finishing capabilities. The Ultimate Sapphire version of this Gravity Equal Force is, in my opinion, one of the best examples of that philosophy, as it adds even more transparency to the inner workings by using sapphire.
The front side of the watch clearly and legibly showcases all the wonderful details it has to offer, and I love that I don’t have to flip the watch over to appreciate the exquisite craftsmanship and finishing – unlike most other watches.
The Gravity Equal Force gets its name from its gravity-aided, automatic micro-rotor movement, with a tungsten winding mass located at the top and its Equal Force barrel at the bottom. This barrel uses a stop-work declutch mechanism and a Maltese cross-based design to isolate the most consistent segment of the mainspring’s power curve, ensuring near-linear energy delivery to the escapement.
The sculptural three-finger bridges on the right are a bold, modern homage to vintage pocket watch design… and I love it. The inner angles are proudly on display and make it easy to appreciate Armin Strom’s high level of finishing.
One of the most rewarding aspects of this watch for a watch enthusiast is hunting down the various inner angles. I’ve counted 16 on the top side: 6 on the finger bridges, 6 on the skeletonized gear at the center, and 4 subtle but impeccably executed angles underneath the sapphire dial layer. It is details like these that have made Armin Strom one of the most widely respected independent brands on the market today. They are not holding back in any aspect of their process, and they deliver an incredible amount of watchmaking value.
An additional impressive detail is the hand-turned guilloché executed on the movement platine, done by Comblémine, the dial manufacturer owned by independent watchmaking legend Kari Voutilainen. From experience, I know that a hand-turned guilloché dial from Comblémine is usually quite a pricey addition to a watch, so this is a very impressive feature.
Lume
Unfortunately, this watch won’t be winning any awards for its lume. The hands are the only lumed elements on the dial, and given how small they are, even if the brand used the best lume material available, it still wouldn’t be enough to truly impress anyone. That said, the hands are filled with lume, and they do glow reasonably brightly, providing at least some legibility throughout the night. The brightness isn’t exceptional, but it is what it is. It’s perhaps best to imagine that this watch has no lume at all, and be pleasantly surprised when you accidentally catch a glimpse of its legible hands in the dark.
Movement
On the back side of the watch, the impressive finishing continues, albeit with a more traditional three-quarter plate movement layout that showcases a beautiful two-level Geneva stripe pattern, perfectly aligned across plates and bridges.
There are hand-polished bevels on all edges of the plates and bridges, along with two more interior angles on the finger-style balance bridge, which holds a free-sprung balance that appears to be sourced from Precision Engineering, a highly respected supplier of hairsprings to some of the best brands in the industry.
This movement beats at 3.5 Hz, has a 72-hour power reserve, and contains roughly 200 parts, designed and almost entirely manufactured in-house by Armin Strom. Since this watch highlights its ability to deliver stable accuracy via its Equal Force mechanism, I decided to put it on my timegrapher and test it in all six positions at roughly half the power reserve.
The results were exceptional, with overall accuracy averaging around +2 seconds per day and very minimal variation between positions. I’m not often impressed by the accuracy and stability of exotic movements, but this is one of those rare moments. And it must be mentioned that this is a nearly 3 year old watch that has certainly been put through its paces.
On The Wrist
The 40.5mm diameter and 47.5mm lug-to-lug distance, combined with its overall flat profile, result in a pretty substantial presence on my 6.75″ wrist. The lugs are quite prominent, and you tend to notice all 47.5mm of the watch’s width. Since the watch has almost no bezel, the entirety of its diameter is experienced, making it look and wear larger than its dimensions might suggest. I don’t mind it at all, since there is a lot going on here and I’m glad there is sufficient real estate to properly appreciate the details. However, if you’re looking for a small or sleek watch, this is not it. This watch feels more sporty than dressy, and the overall 11.90mm thickness, steel construction, and 65g weight without the strap further reinforce that style.
The watch ships with a very well-made Cordura-style strap, but I took it off immediately because I’m not a big fan of deployant clasps in general. While this clasp is well-finished and has interesting details, I much prefer wearing a strap with a simple buckle.
Wrapping Up
When it comes to reviewing and being objective about watches in higher price categories like this one, I feel less equipped to make strong statements, since I don’t have the kind of extensive experience handling watches in this category as I do with watches under $10k, for example. But from what I have seen and experienced, I’m going to go out on a limb and say that I think Armin Strom delivers some of the best value in high-end watchmaking… and I know how contradictory that statement sounds. Their attention to detail, creative engineering, and remarkable finishing are almost unparalleled in this price range these days.
You’re most certainly not going to find a single interior angle on a similarly priced watch from any of the ‘Holy Trinity’ brands, unless you’re looking at vintage or neo-vintage pieces. And even the world of independent watchmaking is quickly becoming a crowded market of pretenders and grifters. So my overall conclusion is this: if you enjoy Armin Strom’s design aesthetic, which I understand can be polarizing, these watches are genuinely impressive pieces that truly deliver a superlative effort in both finishing and engineering.
