Disclaimer: This watch prototype was sent to me to review. This is not a sponsored post, but the brand will send me a production unit in the future. All opinions here are my own, and SGP Watches, MMI Watches had no influence over the opinions stated here.
SGP Watches Dragcon 40 Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/sgpwatches/dragcon-40-watch-dial-sculpted-from-a-single-piece-of-mop
SGP Watches: https://www.sgpwatches.com/
MMI Watches: https://www.mmiwatches.com/
Video
Review
Mother-of-pearl dials seem to be enjoying a moment in the spotlight, particularly those with engraved, guilloché-inspired patterns. I’ve reviewed and own a couple of Selten watches with mother-of-pearl dials, and they’re stunning examples of what can be achieved with the material. But the SGP Dragcon 40, launching on Kickstarter with a Super Early Bird price starting at $449, approaches it rather differently. Instead of making them resemble a conventional guilloché dial, SGP has CNC-machined a large, three-dimensional dragon-scale pattern directly into a single piece of it.
SGP is a new Singaporean brand established in partnership with Victor Wee of MMI Watches. I’ve reviewed quite a few MMI watches over the years, and they’ve consistently impressed me as great affordable watches with interesting design elements. That doesn’t guarantee that SGP’s first watch will be an automatic success, but it does give this otherwise unfamiliar name some credibility.
Let’s check it out!
Case
The stainless steel case is much more distinctive in person than is represented in most renders and photographs. I measured it at 39.75mm in diameter, 46mm from lug tip to lug tip, and 11.7mm thick including the domed sapphire crystal. The crown measures 6.1mm, the lug width is 20mm, and water resistance is rated to 100m.
Viewed from the side, the case has a rather UFO-esque silhouette, with a broad, rounded body and a domed crystal that feels well integrated into the shape. I particularly like the way the crystal completes that profile. It also introduces considerable distortion when viewed from extreme angles, something I enjoy visually even if it isn’t especially helpful for telling the time.
The case is deliberately restrained in its detailing, which seems appropriate given how much is happening on the dial. The polished case-back strikes me as a slightly odd finishing choice compared with the rest of the watch. A luminous crown is a charming touch, and one I’m always happy to see on a watch at any price.
Dial
The dial is the reason this watch exists, and I think SGP has chosen an interesting direction for mother-of-pearl. The current popularity of engraved nacre has produced some beautiful watches, including the Selten pieces I mentioned earlier, but many use fine, repetitive patterns that borrow heavily from traditional guilloché. The Dragcon doesn’t try to imitate that aesthetic. Its much larger, overlapping dragon scales give it an interesting personality of its own.
Mother-of-pearl, or nacre, is made from thin layers of calcium carbonate held together by an organic matrix. Light interacting with these layers produces the shifting iridescent colors that make it such an attractive dial material. On the Dragcon, the three-dimensional relief adds another dimension to that effect: each scale faces the light at a slightly different angle, while the recessed edges create their own shadows.
SGP says the scales are CNC-machined directly into a single piece of mother-of-pearl, rather than assembled from separate decorative elements. Nacre can chip or crack when worked in thin sections, and SGP says it sacrificed numerous blanks while refining the process. It would be interesting to know the depth of the cuts, the thickness of the remaining material, and how the dial is supported. Technical curiosity aside, I think the result looks very cool. The large scales make the texture easy to appreciate without magnification, and the interplay of natural iridescence and sculpted shadows is particularly rewarding under changing light. There are four color options available, but the fundamental visual effect will be the same.
The handset and indices deserve some credit too. Their sharp, angular forms fit the theme without turning into novelty sword shapes, and I think both look excellent. The relatively simple layout also prevents the dial from becoming completely overwhelmed by its texture.
Lume
The Dragcon uses BGW9 Super-LumiNova on the hands and hour indices, with a little additional lume on the crown. Performance is good, and I have no complaints. The hands are generously lumed, the indices do their job, and the overall layout is legible in the dark.
What I especially like is what happens under the hands. Their glow spills onto the mother-of-pearl beneath them, catching the raised scales and revealing the little shadows in between. The dial itself isn’t fully luminous, but that indirect illumination creates a surprisingly dramatic effect. It’s a good example of a conventional lume becoming more interesting because of the surface beneath it.
Movement
Inside is the Miyota 9039. By now, everyone should know I’m a fan of Miyota’s 9000-series movements. They’re relatively slim, run at a higher frequency than most similarly priced alternatives, and are an excellent, robust and reliable fit for modestly priced watches that don’t need a more elaborate caliber.
The movement isn’t particularly exciting to look at through the exhibition back, but I don’t really expect it to be. This is a watch built around its dial, and the Miyota is a sensible, reliable choice.
On The Wrist
The watch weighs 54g without a strap and 67g on its included leather strap, which makes it pleasantly light for something with such a visually substantial dial. On my 6.75-inch wrist, the 46mm lug-to-lug and rounded case proportions make much more sense than the dramatic side profile might initially suggest.
The leather strap is decent quality and has a nicely finished buckle. SGP also includes a cut-to-size rubber strap with an equally well-finished buckle, which I didn’t photograph. It’s very similar in appearance and construction to the CTS rubber straps offered by Delugs and other specialist strap brands.
Wrapping Up
At $449 for the limited Super Early Bird tier, the Dragcon 40 offers an unusual dial, a capable Miyota movement, attractive proportions, good lume, and a surprisingly complete strap package. I like the watch most when it leans into what makes it different: those large sculpted scales, the way the crystal flows into the UFO-like case, and the shadows that appear when light catches the dial. The supplied travel case is also nicely considered.
There is also the Kickstarter consideration. From what I’ve seen, MMI has delivered on its previous crowdfunding projects, and I think the brand has earned a good reputation for making affordable, interesting watches. That gives me more confidence in this venture than I would have in an entirely unknown brand. But SGP is still a new business, and every Kickstarter pledge carries risk, including delays or non-delivery. I’d encourage anyone considering backing the campaign to understand those risks rather than treating it like a normal retail purchase.
The dragon theme won’t be for everyone, but I appreciate that SGP didn’t simply make another guilloché-inspired mother-of-pearl watch. The Dragcon 40 has a clear visual identity, and at this price I think there’s a lot here to enjoy.
